Author

Daniel Kim

Automotive journalist, track junkie, amateur filmmaker

Japan

Here’s exactly how to get to Tatsumi PA

by Daniel Kim January 23, 2020

written by Daniel Kim

Featured image “JDM Garage R32 GTST…R!” by Paul Cook, licensed by CC BY-ND 2.0

Why should I go to Tatsumi PA?

Tatsumi PA is a popular place to check out cool cars in Tokyo. It’s not as famous as Daikoku PA, but still pretty well known among JDM car enthusiasts/bloggers. It’s also way smaller than Daikoku PA, so parking may be difficult.

There are actually two Tatsumi PAs: “Tatsumi No.1 PA” and “Tatsumi second PA.” Tatsumi No.1 PA is where you want to go to see cars (I’ll only be talking about No.1 in this article).

Because it sits high above ground level, it offers a great view of Tokyo – a nice backdrop if you plan on taking photos. It’s located in the Kōtō ward of Tokyo, sitting in roughly the southeastern part of the Tokyo Metropolis, meaning it’s only about a 10 minute drive from many parts of the Japanese capital.

Tatsumi PA is known as a place for cars to take a break that are driving spiritedly on Tokyo’s toll highways, officially called the Shuto Expressway, including the infamous C1 Inner Loop. Bloggers say that you will see cars here that are built for performance, rather than show, like at Daikoku PA. They also add that cars may not stay around long, so take photos when you can.

Can I take public transportation to Tatsumi PA?

No. You could get close by taking the bus or subway, but once you get there, there’s no way to walk up to the parking lot, which is high above ground. I read there are some stairs that go up to the parking area from street level, but they’re for workers/staff only.

On the map above, you can see Tatsumi No.1 Parking Area labeled in green. It looks like there are many different roads that connect to it, but there’s actually only one way to enter (shown by the green line), and one way to exit (shown by the purple line). Both are directly off the highway, so they can only be accessed by a car or motorcycle. I explain exactly which highways to take if you plan on driving there later in this post.

Can I take a taxi/Uber there?

Yes, but the driver might get lost on the way. A parking area is not a common place to get dropped off at, and the language barrier will make it hard to explain even if you have directions. Same thing goes for leaving, taxis/Ubers may have trouble finding your location, or they may not even try to pick you up at all. And remember, there’s no way to walk in or out either, so even if you get dropped off nearby, it’s no use. And if you do get dropped off inside, if you have no ride out you’ll be stuck inside there, a few stories above ground.

Basically, like Daikoku PA, you need to rent a car to get here, and I’ll explain how to do that next.

How do I rent a car/pay tolls/park my car in Tokyo?

I explain in my post on how to get to Daikoku PA about how to pay tolls, how to rent a car, where to park, etc.

Can I use Google Maps navigation to find Tatsumi PA?

Yes! Search “Tatsumi No.1 PA” on Google Maps and it will show up. Use it as your destination and Google Maps will navigate you to the correct place. Double check the destination to make sure you are being taken to the area above ground, not below it.

Even if using navigation, it may help to read the background information below before you start driving there so you don’t wind up underneath the parking area, or get lost and have to pay multiple toll road fees.

How do I get to Tatsumi PA?

The entrance (shown by the green line on the map above) can only be entered in one specific way. You have to be on the Bayshore Route Expressway (labeled with a ‘B’ on Google Maps) going northeast, then merge onto the Route 9 Expressway, going north.

As soon as you merge onto Route 9, you’ll start going slightly uphill. In just a few seconds you’ll exit on the right for Tatsumi PA.

The Google Maps Street View below shows the merge between the Bayshore Route and Route 9. Stay to the left, following signs for “Hakozaki,” and Route 9.

The Bayshore Route and Route 9 are both toll highways. There are only certain places you can get onto the toll highway, where you pass through a toll gate. If you use Google Maps navigation it’ll show you where to get on the highway, otherwise you’ll have to check Google Maps or another map manually to see where the closest toll gate is from your location.

There’s no way to enter Tatsumi PA from the Bayshore Route coming from the opposite direction, southwest. Because it can only be entered from one direction, this means if you’re already north or east of there, you’ll need to take surface streets past the parking area first, then merge onto the toll highways going the right direction — so you won’t have to pay the toll twice.

When is the best time to go to Tatsumi PA?

Friday/Saturday nights, arrive between 7pm and 10pm.

Ken Saito, in an article for Jalopnik, writes that sometimes the neighbors complain about the noise and the meets are shut down by police.

Redditors say (as of early 2019) the car meets get closed regularly on Fridays, and sometimes Saturdays. They also say not to go if weather is bad.

There are also a few special anniversary dates for specific cars that have meets:

January 3rd – New Year’s Day
March 2nd – Nissan Day/R32 Skylines
March 3rd – R33 Skylines
March 4th – R34 Skylines
July 7th – RX-7s
August 6th – AE86/GT86

Can I just pay somebody to take me to Tatsumi PA?

There is an AirBnB tour that will take you to Daikoku PA, Tatsumi No.1 PA, and Umihotaru PA for $120-$131/person (https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/627110).

Tatsumi No.1 PA official website

Official website for Tatsumi No.1 PA (https://www.shutoko-sv.jp/parking_area/pa/?id=1427364300-491721) (use Google translate)

January 23, 2020 1 comment

A modified 3rd generation Mazda RX7, teal color with black accents, front view

Japan

Daikoku PA – how to find Tokyo’s sickest car meet

by Daniel Kim January 17, 2020

written by Daniel Kim

Featured image “rx7” by Paul Cook, licensed by CC BY-ND 2.0

Daikoku PA Google Maps navigation link (exact location)

Daikoku PA – Use this as your destination if you’re navigating using Google Maps. If you type “Daikoku PA” into Google Maps, it gives you a few different results (PA = parking area). Some of the addresses will take you near the parking area, but outside the fences. Use the link as your destination and it will take you to the right place. Daikoku PA and Daikoku futo PA are the same place.

Can I take public transportation to Daikoku PA?

No. The reason why you can’t take public transportation to Daikoku PA is because the entire parking lot is surrounded by high fences (outlined in red on map below). So once you get there on foot you can’t walk in. It was made that way so people on foot or bicycles can’t get in.

There’s only one way in (green line on map below) and one way out (purple line on map below), and they’re for cars only. You need to rent a car or get a ride to get into the parking area. A motorcycle would work also.

You could take a taxi there, but there are no taxis to pick you up when you leave. And remember, you can’t get out on foot because it’s surrounded by fences. If you know how to call a taxi/use a taxi app then you could probably do that to have a taxi come pick you up. I read that some Japanese taxi apps only pickup inside Tokyo. Daikoku PA is outside Tokyo.

How do I get to Daikoku PA?

The easiest way to navigate yourself there is to use the Google Maps link at the top of this post as your destination.

Even with navigation, people sometimes have a hard time getting there, so I’ve added some background info that should help you avoid any confusion if you plan to drive yourself.

You have to get onto the toll highways to get to Daikoku PA

You can’t get into Daikoku PA using surface streets as you’ll be stuck outside the fences as I explained above. The only two highways that take you to there are the K5 Expressway and the Bayshore Route Expressway (labeled on maps with a “B”). Both are toll highways so you’ll need cash (1300 yen) or an Electronic Toll Collection (ETC) card to get through the toll gates (more info at the bottom of this page).

Getting close to Daikoku PA is pretty easy, but getting off at the right exit can be confusing. There are many off-ramps around the area, so I’ve added some maps and more detailed directions to help.

There are three directions you can approach Daikoku PA from:

1. K5 Expressway going south (coming from central Tokyo)
2. Bayshore Route going northeast (for example, coming from Hakone Turnpike)
3. Bayshore Route going southwest (for example, coming from Tatsumi No.1 PA)

1. K5 Expressway going south

As you get near Daikoku PA on the K5 Expressway, follow the sign, staying left.

As you begin to circle around on the off-ramp, you’ll see another set of signs. Follow the sign for P, staying to the right. That takes you straight into Daikoku PA.

2. Bayshore Route going northeast

As you get near Daikoku PA on the Bayshore Route Expressway, heading northeast, follow the sign, staying left.

At the next set of signs, stay right.

As you continue to circle around on the off-ramp, you’ll see a final set of signs. Follow the signs for P, staying to the right. That takes you straight into Daikoku PA.

3. Bayshore Route going southwest

As you get near Daikoku PA on the Bayshore Route Expressway, heading southwest, follow the signs, staying left.

At the next set of signs, stay right.

As you continue to circle around on the off-ramp, you’ll see a final set of signs. Follow the sign for P, staying to the right. That takes you straight into Daikoku PA.

When is the best time to go to Daikoku PA?

Friday and Saturday nights, around 7pm.

Some bloggers say that the parking area is now totally closed on Friday and Saturday nights. Other people say that car meets still happen on weekend nights, but tend to get shut down around 9pm.

Sunday morning at 7am is also recommended as a good time to go. These meets have less chance of being shut down.

There are also a few special anniversary dates for specific cars that have meets:

January 3rd – New Year’s Day
March 2nd – Nissan Day/R32 Skylines
March 3rd – R33 Skylines
March 4th – R34 Skylines
July 7th – RX-7s
August 6th – AE86/GT86

How do I rent a car in Japan?

You need an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) (Geneva Convention, 1949) to drive in Japan. Americans can apply for one at a AAA office for $20. You don’t have to be a member.

Toyota Car Rental (https://rent.toyota.co.jp/eng/) is easy to use, has lots of locations, and isn’t too expensive. It’s as cheap as 7,150 yen per day (~$64). You should also rent an Electronic Toll Collection (ETC) card from them to make paying tolls easier. It’s 330 yen (~$3).

How do I pay the tolls/use the ETC card?

Your rental car will have an ETC card reader on the dashboard. This is where you put in your ETC card. When you drive through the toll gate, your card will automatically be scanned. You will pay the toll fees when you return your car.

Each toll gate has different lanes depending on if you are paying cash or have a card reader. Some lanes can do both.

Where can I park my car?

Here is a really good YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viZb_7uHKow) that explains three types of parking lots you will find in Japan. I would look around your hotel/AirBnB on foot before you rent your car so you know where you’ll be parking, or ask your concierge/AirBnB host.

Can I just pay somebody to take me to Daikoku PA?

1. There is an AirBnB tour that will take you to Daikoku PA, Tatsumi No.1 PA, and Umihotaru PA for $120-$131/person (https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/627110).

2. I read that you can also pay JDMTours.com to take you to Daikoku PA. They don’t have any info about it on their website, but try contacting them and ask.

Daikoku PA website

Official website for Daikoku PA (https://www.shutoko-sv.jp/parking_area/pa/?id=1427361882-982315) (use Google translate)

January 17, 2020 0 comment

Porsche

Ultimate RWB Porsche FAQ – RAUH-Welt Begriff

by Daniel Kim January 6, 2020

written by Daniel Kim

How much does an RWB Porsche cost?

Two options here. You can build it from scratch by providing your own Porsche 930, 964 or 993, or buy one already completed.

Option 1 — Built from scratch

If you want to have Akira Nakai modify your 911 from stock, here is how much the body kit and options cost for a Porsche 993 for example (not including cost of the car):

Body Kit – $24,000
Front bumper
Rear bumper
Front Wide Fenders
Rear Wide Fenders
Side Rockers
GT2 Wing

Options:
Champion wing – $1,600
Fender Wing – $1,400
“RWB” lettering cut out on trunk – $600

According to bringatrailer.com user “rwblosangeles,” you’re looking at over $30,000 for the body kit alone, including shipping and import duties. This does not include the cost of painting and the associated prep work (I’m not sure if the installation is included in the $30,000).

User “rwblosangeles” also mentions that these estimates don’t include accommodations for Akira Nakai, which I’m guessing include his airfare, hotel, and other travel expenses.

Bryson Richards, owner of Classic Livery of Atlanta, has witnessed six RWB builds. In an interview with YouTube channel VINwiki, he talks about the costs for an RWB build. He explains that a $30,000 deposit with RWB will get you on the waiting list to have a Porsche built by Akira Nakai, which is currently sitting at about 1 year to 1.5 years.

Once you put the deposit down, you become part of the RWB family, which includes being invited to a group chat with all current RWB owners. This also means you’ll be invited to the Idlers 12-hour endurance race, a track day event and social gathering held annually in Japan for RWB owners worldwide.

The video also states that most RWB owners choose to install an air-ride suspension, ranging from $4,000 to $8,000. Wheel options run from $3,000 to $15,000. None of these are included in the price of the body kit.

Richards says a full paint job on an RWB Porsche ranges from $18,000 to $25,000. If including interior work with the paint job, like rollcages, that can run the bill up to $130,000, not including the body kit.

Option 2 — Completed Car

Here are a few examples of RWB Porsches that were sold with their prices:

1995 Porsche 911 sold for $132,000 on 6/21/19.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1995-porsche-911-15/
1988 Porsche 911 Carrera sold for $124,001 on 3/8/19.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1995-porsche-911-15/
1995 Porsche 911 Carrera was bid up to $91,000 on bringatrailer.com on 4/27/18, but the reserve was not met.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1995-porsche-911-carrera-20/
1995 Porsche 993 listed for $150,000 on 12/10/16 (unsure if sold).
https://www.thedrive.com/flat-six-society/6443/rwb-porsche-993-for-sale-in-los-angeles
1989 Porsche 911 Carrera 4 listed on eBay with a $149,999 Buy It Now (unsure if sold).
1997 Porsche 933 “Baymax” was listed at $117,500 on Rennlist forums on 2/15/2017 (unsure if sold). https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-marketplace-old/975521-1997-porsche-993-rwb-baymax.html
1995 Porsche 993 C2 is currently listed on Hemming’s classifieds for $189,995.
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/porsche/993c2/2188834.html

What kind of Porsche is an RWB?

RWB currently has bodykits for the Porsche 930, Porsche 964, and Porsche 993 (these are all different generations of the Porsche 911, from oldest to newest). Below are some photos of each of the three Porsche 911 models Nakai currently makes body kits for.

RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF Porsche 930 (1975-1989 911 Turbo)

RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF Porsche 964 (1989-1993 Porsche 911)

RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF Porsche 993 (1994-1998 Porsche 911)

He also offers a 930/964 “backdate” kit, which means he starts with Porsche 964 but modifies the body to make it look like a 930.

Nakai’s first RWB ever was a Porsche 930, his own personal car, nicknamed “Stella Artois.” He also owns the purple 993 pictured above, nicknamed “Rotana.”

Nakai is currently working on a kit for the Porsche 997. He has posted a few photos of the 997 kit in development through RWB’s Facebook and Instagram accounts.

How many RWB Porsches are there in the world?

In an interview with eGarage writers Nic Jemenez and Ernesto Che, Nakai said that he doesn’t know exactly how many RWBs he has built. He added that, at the time of the interview (Oct. 2011), in the past 6 months he had built over 20 cars.

Bryson Richards, the man responsible for the silver paint job on the 1989 RWB Martini 930 “Ichiban Boshi,” said that Akira Nakai “does about 40-50 builds a year, almost one every weekend.”

How to get an RWB Porsche

Here are a few RWB Porsches that are currently for sale:

1995 Porsche Carrera Coupe C2 (red) listed at PelicanParts forum for $135,000
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-cars-sale/1027481-rwb-1995-porsche-911-carrera.html
1989 RWB Martini 930 “Ichiban Boshi” (silver) listed at 6SpeedOnline.com for $185,000
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/automobiles-sale/414512-1989-porsche-911-martini-rwb-2.html
1995 RWB 993 Carrera 2 (purple) listed at Hemmings.com for $189,995
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/porsche/993c2/2188834.html
1993 Porsche 964 Cabriolet (midnight blue) at listed at Hemmings.com price shown as “inquire”
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/porsche/964/2308919.html

What is RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF?

RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF, usually shortened to RWB, is a Porsche tuning shop in Chiba-ken (prefecture), Japan. Its owner, Akira Nakai, is famous for modifying air-cooled Porsche 911s with wild widebody kits, which he designs and installs himself.

RWB now has operations all around the world, including the US, but his humble shop in the Japanese countryside, in Kashiwa city, is where it all started (address and contact info below).

RAUH-Welt Begriff, Japan Main Operations
1-14-33 Fugigokoro, Kashiwa-shi
Chiba Japan 2770034
tel. 047-170-5360 fax. 047-170-4252

Nakai’s modified Porsche 911s have achieved cult levels of following within the automotive tuning community, as well as earned him media coverage from many of the internet’s top automotive news websites and blogs. His style sharply divides opinion, as some purists feel his taste is too flashy and over-the-top for the Porsche 911s he uses as his blank canvas.

What does RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF mean?

RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF is a combination of three German words. Rauh means “rough,” Welt means “world,” and “Begriff” means concept.

In a Speedhunters article by Antonio Alvendia from December 2008, the author explains that “Rough World” was the name of a legendary street drifting crew from Ibaragi, Japan, and that it included Akira Nakai, who was the leader, and Kazuhiro Tanaka, a professional drifter currently competing in the D1 series.

Drifters of that time favored a certain style defined by low ride heights, stretched tires, and excessive negative camber. This was known as “Rough Style.” According to Alvendia, Nakai was responsible for making this style popular in the grassroots drifting community.

See photos of Akira Nakai’s AE86 and learn more about the Rough World drift crew.

I read that the three words together in German don’t really make sense, but Nakai explains in interviews that the term is a way to describe the idea that each country has its own unique roads and weather, and that every RWB owner’s driving style is different.

Nakai reveals in another interview that the idea of “Rough World” started around 1994, when he got his first car.

What does “Sekund Entwicklung” mean?

These are also both German words. Sekund means “second” and Entwicklung means “development.” Nakai uses this phrase to acknowledge his transition into tuning German cars as the “secondary” phase of his tuning life, whereas before he primarily tuned Japanese cars, especially the Toyota Corolla AE86.

Is a RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF a Porsche?

RWB doesn’t manufacturer its own cars. It modifies older Porsche 911s. People tend to call a Porsche with an RWB body kit an “RWB,” but it’s not its own model.

What is the address for RWB Los Angeles?

I’m not sure if these are current, but here are the two address listed on the RWB USA website.

RAUH-Welt Begriff, US Operations
790 South Amphlett Blvd, San Mateo, CA 94402
email: rauhweltusa@gmail.com- Best way to contact!

RAUH-Welt Begriff, Los Angeles Operations
3402 W Macarthur Blvd, Suite E, Santa Ana, CA 92704

How to pronounce RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF? (24)

Here is a link to Google translate that has audible pronunciation for “Rauh-Welt Begriff”

All photos credited to Kevin Phan to which he reserves all usage rights. Photos may not be used without photographer’s express permission.

January 6, 2020 0 comment

Porsche

Cars & Coffee: Porsche Experience Center & Tech Session

by Daniel Kim December 13, 2019

written by Daniel Kim

I was able to attend my first The Morning Shift Cars & Coffee event back in October. That weekend’s gathering focused on all Porsche 911s starting from 1974 and up through the end of the 964, whose time came to an end in 1993. 1974 was about midway through the original 911s 25-year production run and was the first year of the G-series 911, distinguishable by its trademark “accordion” rubber bumpers.

The event was held at the Porsche Experience Center in Carson, CA, also home to Porsche Motorsports North America, and was what inspired me to begin my series on the history of the original Porsche 911. There was a great turnout of Porsches old and new. This was the first time I really saw the power of the Porsche brand following at a social gathering – it was mind-blowing how many GT3s, GT3RSes, and immaculately restored classic 911s reside with owners in Los Angeles/Orange County, and equally astonishing the amount of wealth circulating to fund such endeavors.

As I made my rounds with my camera, systematically traveling through each row of displayed cars, something caught my eye that was not a Porsche: a red Lamborghini Countach, parked in one of the reserved spots near the front entrance of the PEC (turns out it’s the one Cindy Crawford modeled with). While some young ladies took turns posing in the front seat for their social media photo ops, I started snapping away furiously at the menacing red bull that sat before me. It was then that I noticed a familiar face, and went into my usual routine when I notice someone famous. I asked the gentleman, “Are you Matt Farah?” To which he replied, “Yes, I am,” and politely shook my hand while asking my name.

He explained the reason for arriving with his Italian girlfriend, rather than German, was that his off-road Safari 911, built by Leh Keen of The Keen Project based in Georgia, was being displayed inside the PEC. As it dawned on me that his success as an automotive personality had brought him enough riches to afford such cars, a bystander swooped in to introduce himself to Mr. Farah. I parted ways with Matt by telling him that he is “the car guy,” to which he modestly replied that “I’m just a guy with a bunch of GoPros.”

After the end of the meet, I attended a Tech Session with Porsche Motorsports North America (PMNA), a behind-the-scenes look at the motorsport’s facilities on-site in Carson, made possible by the Porsche Club of Los Angeles. I had put my camera away for the day, so no photos unfortunately, but I was able to look around the garage where they work on customer’s race cars, and learn a little bit about how Porsche’s customer racing program operates. As you would expect, the facility was immaculate.

Our tour group was reminded of the almost incomprehensible level of precision that has made Porsche so successful, as both a manufacturer and in motorsports, in an anecdote delivered by our tour guide, given while we examined the engine dyno room. He explained that all engine dyno results have to be approved by Porsche’s main motorsports branch in Germany. Our host then proceeded to recall an incident where an engine dyno reading was off by 1 horsepower, and that their counterparts in Europe refused to accept the slight discrepancy, checking every possible variable/error that might have caused it. I forget what it was exactly, but they eventually found out what was causing the reading to differ.

It was that story, and other similar tales of Porsche’s obsessive attention to detail (like how they have an official guideline for how to align the Porsche crest on their wheel center caps) that’s helped me understand grown men’s infatuation with Porsche, and why the manufacturer deserves to receive every bit of it.

Thanks for checking out my blog. If these cars were too tame for you, please check out my next post, The Ultimate RWB Porsche FAQ, where I answer lots of common questions about RAUH-Welt BEGRIFF Porsches, and their creator, Akira Nakai.

December 13, 2019 0 comment

Porsche

Porsche 911 specs, prices, model year changes — 1964-1969

by Daniel Kim December 11, 2019

written by Daniel Kim

Introduction

The original, sometimes called “classic,” Porsche 911’s history fills entire books with information because of its incredibly long 25-year life span; it was produced from 1964 until 1989, when it was finally replaced by the Porsche 911 (964).

Built as a replacement to Porsche’s first model ever, the Porsche 356, the 911 was actually called the Porsche 901 when it first began appearing at car shows in 1963, and into the first few months of its production in late 1964. Porsche would eventually change the name of the 901 to 911 after a legal dispute with Peugeot, which will be covered shortly.

From its first year of production in 1964 all the way through the 1969 model year (MY), the classic 911’s infamous flat-6 “Boxer” engine displaced 2.0-liters: these are the years we will cover in this post. Within the 2.0-liter era there were three distinct lettered “series,” which are commonly referred to as the O-series, A-series and B-series. Each new letter signified an introduction of updates, sometimes major, other times minor.

Why is it called the Porsche 911?

Long before Porsche was manufacturing its own cars, it was actually an engineering design office, founded in 1931 as Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche GmbH by Ferdinand Porsche. Each project was given an “in-house type number,” which would ascend in sequential numerical order with each subsequent project, beginning with the number 7. The Porsche 356 was their 356th project.

But when Porsche’s replacement to the 356 went into production, Porsche decided to start with a new number range in the 900s, as it had not yet been used. They would start with 901 for their new six-cylinder sports car.

Due to a dispute with Peugeot, however, who claimed rights to three-digit model designations with a “0” in the middle, Porsche changed the name to 911 in late 1964. According to Porsche’s website, there are two different reasons why they decided on 911. One is because this number combination was already familiar to all Americans, the USA being one of their most important markets. The other was that using another “1” in the model name would make less work when editing brochures and the name badge on the rear of the vehicle.

1. Porsche 911 O-series (September 1964 to July 1967)

The first 2.0-liter 911s produced were classified as O-series, exact dates above (I’m not sure why they decided to start with O, before beginning in alphabetical order with the A-series in 1968). Porsche used the letter designations to subdivide and classify the original 911s different variations as they began to run out of numbers in the 900s.

Porsche 901 in an off white color, with a lady standing next to it

“1963_911 Type 901” by Abdullah AlBargan licensed by CC 2.0

1964

Porsche began production of the 901 in September 1964, eventually changing the name to 911 in November 1964 due to the dispute with Peugeot.

None of the 82 examples of the Porsche 901 were sold to the public, although a few are known to be in the hands of private owners.

1964 Porsche 901 specs

BODYSTYLE(s): coupe
ENGINE: 2.0L SOHC flat-6 “Boxer” air-cooled 148HP (All horsepower figures used are SAE)
TRANSMISSION: 5-speed manual
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, lateral torsion bars, 13mm anti-roll bar
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm with lateral torsion bars
PRICE: Never sold publicly

1965

1965 was the first full production year of the Porsche 911, with only a single engine offered: a 2.0L flat-6, mounted behind the rear-axle. According to my research, only a 5-speed transmission was offered in 1965.

One visual cue that distinguishes 1965MY 911’s is the slanted and offset position of the gold 911 lettering at the rear of the car. Beginning from 1966 and forward, the logo was moved to a central position and oriented straight.

According to a Car and Driver review from 1970, demand was extremely high at most Porsche agencies for the new 911, resulting in the first six month’s production being sold out. At the time, the Porsche factory was producing a maximum of four cars per day.

1965 Porsche 911 specs

BODYSTYLE(s): coupe
ENGINE: 2.0L SOHC flat-6 “Boxer” air-cooled 148HP
TRANSMISSION: 5-speed manual
WEIGHT: 2,376 lbs.
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars, 13mm anti-roll bar
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm with lateral torsion bars
PRICE: $6,490

1966

Internet sources report that there was no difference between the 1965MY and 1966MY. It wasn’t until 1967 that the 911 received the addition of a new body style and a few different engine options.

1966 Porsche 911 specs

BODYSTYLE(s): coupe
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 148HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 5-speed manual
WEIGHT: ?
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars, 13mm front anti-roll bar
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm with lateral torsion bars
PRICE: $5,990

1967

Porsche introduced a new body style in 1967, called Targa, which was their safer alternative to the convertible.

What does the S stand for on a Porsche?

In 1967, Porsche released their first high-power variant of the 911, the 911S. The “S” stands for “Super,” or “Sport,” to denote its more powerful engine and additional performance-enhancing equipment, compared to the base model.

1967 Porsche 911 specs

BODYSTYLE(s): coupe or Targa
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 148HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 4-speed manual standard / 5-speed manual optional (+$80)
WEIGHT: ?
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars, 13mm anti-roll bar
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm, lateral torsion bars
PRICE: $5,900 / Targa body: +$400

A yellow 1966 Porsche 911S, focusing on the driver's side window

“1966 Porsche 911S” by Bryce Womeldurf licensed by CC 2.0

1967 Porsche 911S specs

BODYSTYLE(s): coupe or Targa
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 180HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 5-speed manual
WEIGHT: ?
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, Koni shocks, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars, 15mm front anti-roll bar
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm, Koni shocks, lateral torsion bars, 16mm rear anti-roll bar
WHEELS: 5-spoke forged-aluminum “Fuchs” rims 15×4.5J
PRICE: $6,990

1967 Porsche 911R specs

BODYSTYLE(s): coupe
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 210HP
TRANSMISSION(s): ?
WEIGHT: 1,760 lbs.
FRONT SUSPENSION: ?
REAR SUSPENSION: ?
WHEELS: ?
PRICE: DM 45,000

The 911R was built as a prototype to potentially compete in the GT sport class of racing. Engineers started with a 911S and replaced many of the body panels with fiberglass, stripped out all unnecessary items, and used thinner glass or plexiglas where possible, all in an effort to reduce weight. After stripping 506 lbs., they added a type 901/22 race engine, a six-cylinder flat-6 producing 210HP, similar to the one used in the Porsche 906 Carrera 6. Porsche ultimately decided against homologation and thus only produced 19 examples in addition to the 4 prototypes. 15 of those were sold publicly.

2. Porsche 911 A-series (August 1967 to July 1968)

1968

1968 saw the beginning of the A-series 911 and a reconfiguration of the 911 model lineup. This reconfiguration, was, however, different for Europe and the US, because the 911S was not sold in the US in 1968 due to emissions regulations (it would return to the US market in 1969).

In Europe, the base 911 was now called the 911L (“Luxus” or “Luxury”). Porsche also introduced a new model, for Europe only, the 911T.

What is a 911T?

The “T” in 911T actually stands for “Touring,” not Targa. It was first introduced for the 1968 model year as a slightly detuned, less expensive 911 for entry-level buyers, and in its initial year of production was only available in Europe (it would enter the US market in 1969).

Its 2.0-liter, flat-6, 125HP engine used cheaper materials, lower compression pistons, and a less aggressive camshaft profile than the base 911’s 148HP unit. Solid disc brakes, no front or rear anti-roll bars, and a standard equipment list similar to that of the 4-cylinder Porsche 912 all helped keep the 911T’s price reasonable.

The US missed out on the 911T in 1968, but it did receive the 911L. This was not the same as the European 911L, however. It was, instead, basically a European 911S, but without the more powerful engine. A base 911 was also offered alongside the L in the US (not sure if this base 911 was built as an O-series or A-series).

All variants, in either region, were available in either a coupe or Targa body style.

This was also the inaugural year of the Sportomatic semi-automatic transmission, which could be ordered as an option on any six-cylinder 911.

1968 Porsche 911 specs

USA only in 1968
BODYSTYLE(s): coupe or Targa
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 148HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 4-speed manual  / 5-speed manual optional  / 4-speed Sportomatic optional
WEIGHT: ??
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars (Reduced size 11mm front anti-roll bar?)
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm with softer 22mm lateral torsion bars
PRICE: $6,190

1968 Porsche 911T specs

Europe only in 1968
BODYSTYLE(s): coupe or Targa
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 125HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 4-speed manual  / 5-speed manual optional  / 4-speed Sportomatic optional
WEIGHT: ??
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm with softer 22mm lateral torsion bars
PRICE: DM 19,000 / Targa body: +DM 1400

The easiest way to identify a 911T is by its silver, rather than gold, logo.

1968 Porsche 911L specs

USA and Europe
BODYSTLE(s): coupe or Targa
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 148HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 5-speed manual  / 4-speed Sportomatic optional (+$280)
WEIGHT: ?
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars. Reduced size 11mm front anti-roll bar (Europe? USA?)
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm with softer 22mm lateral torsion bars, 15mm(?) rear anti-roll bar (USA likely, not sure about Europe)
PRICE: $6,190 coupe / $7,190 Targa

1968 Porsche 911S specs

Europe only in 1968
BODYSTYLE(s): coupe or Targa
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 180HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 5-speed manual  / 4-speed Sportomatic optional
WEIGHT: ??
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, Koni shocks, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars, 15mm anti-roll bar
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm with Koni shocks, with softer 22mm lateral torsion bars, 15mm rear anti-roll bar
WHEELS: 5-spoke “Fuchs” rims
PRICE: DM 24,500 / Targa DM 25,900

3. Porsche B-series (Aug 1968 to July 1969)

1969

In 1969, the Porsche 911 saw its first round of major updates, which included the addition of fuel injection to certain models, and the lengthening of its wheelbase by a little over 2 inches (one source says 2.25in, another 2.4in). Porsche engineers accomplished this by lengthening the rear trailing arms, which moved the rear wheels back. The slightly longer wheelbase aimed to address the volatile handling nature of the earlier, shorter wheelbase “A” and “O”-series cars.

Optional in 1968, fixed rear glass became standard on Targas starting in 1969.

Porsche 911T vs Porsche 911E

Unlike the previous year, Porsche now offered the same three 911 variations in both Europe and the US: the 911T, the 911E, and the 911S. What was originally the 911L the prior year was renamed to the 911E, and kept its place as the “standard” 911, still sitting above the entry-level 911T and below the high-power 911S. Both the 911E and 911S now featured fuel injection; the 911T remained carbureted. The base 911 engine found in the 911E jumped in power to 160HP. The 911S went up to 190HP.

A self-leveling suspension was introduced as standard on the 911E, and as an option for the 911T and 911S. The Boge struts tended to leak and were expensive to replace, thus most 911s with the self-leveling system have been changed back to a conventional setup with shocks and torsion bars.

Specifications are available for both the 911T and 911E below for a quick comparison.

How much is a 1969 Porsche 911 worth?

At The Porsche 70th Anniversary Auction in October 2018, hosted by RM Sotheby’s, a 1969 Porsche 911E Coupe sold for $123,200. It is a fully restored example.

In comparison, we see a 1969 Porsche 911 S Targa being offered for $54,500 by Beverly Hills Car Club via the duPont Registry’s website. Mileage is not specified.

1968 Porsche 911T with Karmann bodywork, silver color, being displayed in The Gallery Aaldering, Brummen

“1968 Porsche 911 2.0 T Karmann LWB” by peterolthof licensed by CC 2.0

1969 Porsche 911T specs

BODYSTYLE(s): coupe or Targa
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 125HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 4-speed manual standard /  5-speed manual optional (US/Europe)  / 4-speed Sportomatic optional (US/Europe)
WEIGHT: 2,360 lbs coupe
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm, 22mm lateral torsion bars
PRICE: $5,795

1969 Porsche 911E specs

BODYSTYLE(s): coupe or Targa
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 160HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 4-speed manual standard (US) /  5-speed manual optional (US) / 5-speed manual standard (Europe) / 4-speed Sportomatic optional (US/Europe)
WEIGHT: 2,410 lbs coupe
FRONT SUSPENSION: Boge self-leveling hydropneumatic struts, single transverse A-arms
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm, 22mm lateral torsion bars (no rear anti roll bar?)
PRICE: $6,995

1969 Porsche 911S specs

BODYSTYLE(s): coupe or Targa
ENGINE: 2.0L flat-6 SOHC “Boxer” air-cooled 190HP
TRANSMISSION(s): 5-speed manual /  4-speed Sportomatic optional
WEIGHT: 2,370 lbs coupe
FRONT SUSPENSION: MacPherson strut, Koni shocks, single transverse A-arms connected to lateral torsion bars, 15mm anti-roll bar
REAR SUSPENSION: Semi-trailing arm with Koni shocks, 22mm lateral torsion bars, 15mm rear anti-roll bar
WHEELS: 5-spoke “Fuchs” rims
PRICE: $7,695 / Targa body: +$620

December 11, 2019 0 comment

Ferrari Lamborghini

Ferrari 488 Grigio Silverstone & Lamborghini Aventador Viola SE photos

by Daniel Kim November 7, 2019

written by Daniel Kim

Sometimes mindlessly browsing social media actually does pay off. I randomly stumbled across a free ticket to the 2019 OC Auto Show through South Coast Toyota’s Facebook page (thank you guys so much!). It was exactly the divine inspiration I needed to get out of the house and practice photography with my Canon T3i, a toy I purchased years ago when I first began my quest to become Car Crazy Dan.

Unfortunately, that poor guy has been sitting in my closet, quietly and politely waiting to be utilized by its owner, wanting to show him the power of a single-lens reflex camera, and eventually catapult him to YouTube Partner mega-millionaire status. I’m happy to report that in the past few months, my T3i is finally getting to fulfill his purpose in life, to go out and capture real life things and freeze them into perfect little bite-sized memories. I struggled at first to understand the relation between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, but after a few weeks of practice I am now able to shoot in full manual mode, although the difference between slight variations in f-stop numbers I still don’t quite get.

Car Crazy Dan is still in super infant start-up mode, so that meant that he had to park in a neighborhood 1/2 a mile away from the convention center and walk to save some dough, of which he blew half of on a $9.00 italian snackwrap from a concession stand (Car Crazy Dan’s accounting department is still being developed). I took my salami and cheese breath straight to where it would be appreciated, the Italian exotics area. Best shot of the day was the Ferrari 488 Grigio Silverstone, above. I also really liked the way the interior shots of the Pagani Huayra turned out — the perfect viewing perspective created by the open gullwing doors, allowing unobstructed visual oogling of the absurd level of detail paid to the Huayra’s interior just really did it for me. The Lamborghini Aventador Viola SE I couldn’t get a good photo of, but man, I love that color.

Look out for my next post covering The Morning Shift Cars & Coffee October 5th 2019, featuring a bunch of beautiful classic Porsche 911s, and a run in with Matt Farah and his Lamborghini Countach.

November 7, 2019 0 comment

NSX

A 1998 Acura NSX-T is the only way to relive the 90s

by Daniel Kim October 28, 2019

written by Daniel Kim

My head is touching the targa top; my knees are inches away from the bottom of the Honda-badged steering wheel, and my rear end feels like it’s stuck in a manhole — that’s how deep the black leather, red suede-trimmed bucket seat is.

Or, at least, that’s how it feels as the supercar aura of the NSX is messing with my head. As it does, my mind begins to race towards worst-case scenarios. I think about how much my friend’s car might be worth now, given the rising prices of 90s Japanese supercars, and if his insurance company would still pay out if I was the one who crashed it. I catch myself spiraling down into this negative thought loop, break it, and remember the words of my therapist: breathe in peace, breathe out calm.

A bit more focused now, but still full of the nervous energy that comes with this kind of responsibility, I realize I have to locate the pedals before crashing would become possible. I feel around in the pedal box with my Nikes, and what I discover is more cause for alarm: the clutch, brake, and gas pedal seem to be almost touching each other, and all of them are slightly offset to the right. I am reminded of that YouTube video of Ayrton Senna test driving an NSX-R around Suzuka, executing perfect heel-toe downshifts in his brown loafers.

I forget about Ayrton’s brown loafers for a bit and decide to take some mental notes about the interior design of the NSX. The first thing I notice is the layout of the driver’s side door panel controls, which integrate two narrow, vertically stacked A/C vents at the top of it. I also notice that the instrument cluster is positioned so close to the left A-pillar that there is no room for A/C vents there: this means you sit almost flush with the door. Add to that the low height and downward slope of the door panel controls, and you really feel how close to the ground the NSX sits.

Besides the “D”-shaped interior door handles, the funky looking cruise control stalk, and the fact that the center console and door panel controls sit at an angle, everything else is reassuringly similar to what you’d find on any other Honda from that era. The familiar black, hard plastics and simple instrument cluster dials create this nostalgic 90s retro feeling, almost as if I’m not actually in a car, but some kind of ultra-realistic NSX driving simulator game from two decades ago.

Except this isn’t a game, and there are no continues in real life, so I make absolutely sure I can see out the rearview and sideview mirrors before I go anywhere. The steeply angled rear hatch glass means I’m looking through a mail-slot sized viewport when scanning directly behind me, but I feel I have fairly decent overall rearward visibility, miraculous given how low the NSX is. I figure I’m not going to spend much time looking for incoming junk mail anyway, given how picturesque the scene is out the front canopy.

The NSX has one of the best views I’ve ever seen through the front windshield of a car, due to some clever engineering from Honda. By making the cowl section lower, they were able to subsequently lower the height of the dash and instrument panel, creating better vertical visibility. For the NSX owner this means an almost panoramic view out of the cockpit, and a sense of being very in-tune with the outside world when the windows are down.

And that’s perfect because I want to hear every single bit of noise coming from the 3.2-liter V6, now fully warmed up and at the beck-and-call of my right foot. The throttle response is so crisp and linear that every jab and release of the gas pedal creates a different pitch of noise from the modified exhaust. As I get deeper and deeper into the throttle, I start to hear the trademark Honda intake howl, and eventually when I hit the VTEC crossover point, it crescendos into a rapid blare of induction noise: I call it the VTEC trombone.

The VTEC trombone, aka the C32B, unlike many 4-cylinder VTEC engines, has the bite to back up its bark. Even by today’s standard, it’s fast. The pulling power of 2nd and 3rd gear near redline feels like at least 300hp; it’s more than enough to send the average owner, or “hot shot automotive blogger,” into trouble very quickly, and by that measure it’d be misleading to say its underpowered.

It takes a little getting used to the relationship between the shifter and clutch. I’m pretty sure it’s an aftermarket clutch because you have to put some leg into it. Before I can start ripping off redline gear changes, I’ll need some seat time, because with 6-speeds, plus reverse, and such a physically small shifter box, it’s hard to tell whether I’m actually going into 3rd or 5th gear sometimes.

With some miles under my belt, I’m feeling a bit more comfortable with the NSX, but it’s just too valuable to take any real risks with. I stay mostly on flat, straight surface streets and saw the wheel back and forth to try and get some feedback from the chassis. As expected, the NSX delivers great road feel. But, because I’m sitting so low to the ground, that feeling is magnified. It feels like all four tires are sending feedback through the floor directly into the driver’s seat, creating a sensation you don’t often get in a road vehicle. This kind of tactile overload is usually reserved for karts and purpose-built racing cars.

I spend the last part of my test drive analyzing the NSX’s behavior under hard braking. I’ll dig into the throttle for a few seconds to build some speed, then quickly jump on the brakes, noting the ample amount of feedback the braking system provides. The pedal isn’t as firm as I’d like, but the brakes consistently haul the car down from speed repeatedly. I never reach the point of threshold braking. If I were to, I’m confident the 20+ year-old example I was driving would have no trouble if asked.

As I bring the NSX back to my friend’s house, I can’t help but feel sad about not being able to really put it through its paces like I’d be able to at a dedicated circuit—something that’s still near the top of my automotive bucket list. But reflecting back on that engrossing Sunday afternoon joyride, in which I received unrestricted access to what many argue is the most complete exotic car ever made, I felt a sense of emotional fulfillment. I felt good because I got to do something that carries heavy weight in my life, and that is getting to drive a car I grew up dreaming about, and still dream about.

October 28, 2019 0 comment

Calculator on a desk next to an uncapped silver pen with a sheet of paper with some financial data written on it

Car Buying Advice

The Top 10 Car Leasing Mistakes To Avoid

by Daniel Kim August 1, 2019

written by Daniel Kim

Leases are more difficult to understand than traditional financing. This means there are opportunities for buyers to get amazing deals on cars they couldn’t afford to finance, and it also means that if you don’t know what you’re getting into, you could be in serious financial trouble.

Before leasing your next car, take a look at these common leasing mistakes. If you are aware of these 10 mistakes people tend to make when leasing, you’ll be much more prepared when you actually start new car shopping.

Mistake #10 – Going to the dealer instead of contacting the internet sales department

Internet sales departments generally care about volume more than profit, so they tend to quote prices that are already close to their lowest possible price.

It’s also harder to review a lease deal at the dealership, away from your computer unless you’ve studied it a lot. At home there’s no pressure, and you can use online lease calculators, or consult with members of online leasing forums on your own time before going to the dealership to sign the lease contract.

Mistake #9 – Not negotiating the selling price

Yes, you can negotiate the price of the car for a lease. Dealers usually advertise lease specials based on a low monthly payment, most likely using MSRP, or basically full price for the car. The lower the selling price of the car, the lower your monthly payment will be as well. Try to get the selling price down to around invoice price.

Mistake #8 – Paying a marked up money factor

A lease does have interest. But in a lease it’s called the money factor. The money factor usually is a very small number between 0.0010 and 0.0020 which can make it confusing. Multiply the money factor by 2400 to convert it to an interest rate. For example, 0.0010 x 2400 = 2.4%.

Car dealers don’t advertise the money factor in their lease deals; they don’t have to legally tell you the rate. What they can do is mark it up, which makes the lease payment more expensive.

It’s good to learn how a lease is calculated if you are going to lease a car. There are many good resources that explain the money factor and how it is used in calculating a lease payment.

Mistake #7 – Buying upsell items you don’t need

When you finally agree to buy or lease a car, you will be taken to the finance manager’s office to sign the contract. This is where he or she will try to sell you a bunch of extra stuff that you don’t need.

Some common ones are extended warranties, alarm systems, paint protection and pre-paid maintenance plans.

Politely refuse everything. If they keep offering these products keep politely refusing until they give up. They will make it sound like these are things you really need but you don’t.

Mistake #6 – Underestimating miles driven

This is the most common problem I see people asking about online, what to do when they are way over their allowed miles on a lease. When it gets to that point, it’s almost too late.

A common penalty is $0.20 per extra mile, but it can be higher. So if you’re 10,000 miles over you will have to pay an extra $2,000 when the lease is over.

If during the middle of your lease it’s obvious that you’re going way over the allowed miles, some dealers will allow you to pre-pay for the extra mileage at a discounted rate. For example, if the penalty is $0.20, they may allow you to pre-pay for the extra miles at $0.18.

Mistake #5 – Making too big a down payment

If you ever see a lease special with a monthly payment that seems too good to be true, it’s probably because it requires a huge down payment (they put the part about the $5,000 down payment in the fine print).

Technically, you should never put any down payment on a lease, because if the car is stolen or totaled you’ll probably never get that money back. I think it’s ok to put $1,000 or $2,000 sometimes to get the monthly lease payment to a number that is comfortable, but any more than that is risky.

Mistake #4 – Buying the car at the end of the lease

Generally this is a bad idea because the buyout price will be too high, that is, above market value. That means that similar cars to yours will be selling on the used market for a lower price than what you agreed to for the buyout price on your lease contract. Sometimes it does make sense to buyout your car at the end of the lease.

A. If you are way over allowed miles

If you have to pay $2,000 or $3,000 in penalties for going over allowed mileage, you might want to just buy the car. If you buy the car, you also don’t have to pay the disposition fee, which is usually between $350-$500.

B. Or if the car has lots of damage, i.e. scratches, wheel rash, etc. that you’ll have to pay for

Again, if you have to pay $2,000 or $3,000 to repair wear and tear when the lease ends, it might be better just to buy the car. Then you won’t have to pay those penalties, and you’ll also save on the disposition fee.

Mistake #3 – Breaking the lease

Once you sign the lease contract, you are responsible for all the payments no matter what. There are only two ways to get out.

A. Transfer the lease to someone else. You can post in the classifieds at leasehackr forums, or try advertising on swapalease.com or leasetrader.com and see if anyone wants to take it over.

B. Sell your car to CarMax, Vroom or Carvana. If the price they offer you is close to what your current lease buyout price is, then you can sell your currently leased car to them and they will pay off the bank that is responsible for your lease.

This doesn’t happen often. It’s more likely that the price that CarMax, Vroom or Carvana offers you will be lower than the buyout price, which means you have to pay the difference yourself.

Mistake #2 – Getting a lease term that’s too long

The sweet spot in terms of value for most leases is usually a 3 year term. However, if you know you tend to switch cars often, it might be better to get a 2 year lease. Your payments will be higher, but the upside is you won’t have to deal with the headache of trying to get out of your lease early if you get bored of the car quickly.

Mistake #1 – Not thinking about the end of the lease

A common theme I see among people posting for help about their leases online is that they get in trouble when the lease is almost over. They either want to:

A. Get out of the lease a few months early, and/or

B. Are way over allowed miles / have lots of wear and tear on the car

In both cases, you’ll have to pay up. Also remember that there is a $350-$500 disposition fee due at the end of the lease. So before you run to the dealer to get that new car you’ve been eyeing, think about these scenarios closely and see if any of them might apply to you when your lease is over.

People love leasing because it allows them to drive a new car they normally couldn’t afford. But you have to look at more than just the monthly payment.

Don’t choose a lease that has less total miles allowed than you actually need and then tell yourself that you will drive less. If you go over, you will owe a lot of extra money at the end of the lease and it will hurt, trust me.

August 1, 2019 0 comment

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